How to Make Mitre Joints

How to Make Mitre Joints

We may conclude our description of the several methods of jointing with instructions for making mitre joints.

Two of the common modes are shown in the diagrams below. At A, B, and C are shown the forms (in perspective) of the three portions required to construct a feathered mitre joint. The ends of the pieces A and B have to be accurately cut at the angle of 450. This can be readily done with dovetail saws and a mitre box.

For rough work, the ends as left by the saw will be sufficient; but for fine work, the ends should be shot perfectly true with the trying-plane laid on its side on a mitre block against which the wood can be held at the true angle.

The cut ends of the pieces A and B should be laid tightly together between two flat pieces of wood, and fixed in the bench-vise, and saw-cuts made across the joint to receive the feather-piece shown at C.

Where great strength is required, the feather should be of a substantial thickness, as indicated ; and in this case two saw-cuts will be necessary, and the wood between them must be removed. In light work, the feather need not be more than sufficient to fill a single thick saw-cut. Some hard wood veneer is commonly used for this purpose. In all cases the grain of the feather should run in the direction indicated at C.

Mitre Joints

At D, E, and F are shown the forms of the pieces required in the construction of the mortise and tenon mitre joint. This joint is so clearly indicated as to call for no detailed description. It will be seen that the tenon F, cut at the angle of 450, at the end of the piece D, takes the place of an independent feather: this fits tightly into the open mortise in the mitred end of the piece E.

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How to Make Mitre Joints

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